Cotton has dominated the textile industry for decades, woven into everything from t-shirts to bed linens. But this dominance didn’t happen naturally — it was shaped by profit-driven industries with vested interests, leaving an environmental toll we can no longer ignore. As sustainability moves to the forefront, an old contender is returning to the stage: hemp. This battle extends beyond fashion, pitting two fibres against each other with the future of sustainable fashion at stake.
Cotton: The ‘Villain’ Fibre
Cotton’s role in textiles is complex. Often sold as a “natural” and “breathable” fabric, cotton’s reality is far less flattering. Here’s why cotton, despite its reputation, has become a problematic staple in the industry:
Water Consumption: Cotton is among the most water-intensive crops in the world. Producing a single cotton t-shirt requires up to 2,700 litres of water — the equivalent of two years’ worth of drinking water for one person. This thirst has led to environmental disasters, like the drying of the Aral Sea, largely driven by cotton irrigation.
Dependency on Pesticides and Chemicals: Cotton farming demands high levels of pesticides and fertilisers, leading to soil degradation and water pollution. Approximately 16% of global pesticide use is attributed to cotton, impacting ecosystems and communities. The toll on soil is severe, with excessive pesticide use eroding nutrients and causing long-term infertility.
Short Lifespan and Waste: Cotton fibres weaken and degrade over time, feeding into fast fashion’s quick turnover and contributing to textile waste mountains in landfills. As cotton items tend to wear out faster, they need frequent replacement, driving demand and perpetuating a cycle of environmental strain.
Hemp: The Overlooked Powerhouse
Hemp, on the other hand, offers a completely different approach. Once a staple crop used for everything from ropes to clothing, hemp was sidelined by industries that saw its sustainable properties as a threat to profit-driven models. Today, hemp’s environmental advantages over cotton make it a natural choice for a sustainable future:
Low Water Requirement: Hemp uses up to 50% less water than cotton to grow, making it far more sustainable. Hemp often thrives on rainwater alone, reducing the need for artificial irrigation that depletes freshwater reserves.
Pesticide-Free Growth: Unlike cotton, hemp resists most pests naturally, meaning it can be grown without harmful pesticides. This makes hemp beneficial for both soil health and local ecosystems, promoting biodiversity instead of harming it. Hemp’s deep roots prevent soil erosion and regenerate soil with each growth cycle, making it a crop that gives back to the earth.
Long-Lasting, Durable Fibres: Hemp fibres are significantly stronger and more durable than cotton, meaning garments don’t wear out as quickly. Instead of ending up in landfills, hemp clothing lasts longer, reducing the need for replacements and the waste that comes with them.
A History of Suppression
Hemp was once a primary source for textiles until the early 20th century when cotton gained power. This shift wasn’t accidental. As cotton became central to American agriculture, powerful interests invested heavily in cotton and lobbied against hemp’s growth. Laws like the Marihuana Tax Act of 1937, which ostensibly targeted psychoactive cannabis, included industrial hemp. By linking hemp with marijuana, these laws effectively wiped out hemp as a competitor, securing cotton’s dominance.
Cotton industry advocates, with significant lobbying clout, ensured that cotton flourished while hemp was suppressed. With cotton cemented as the dominant textile, environmental consequences followed: high water and pesticide demands mounted unchecked. Meanwhile, the sustainable benefits of hemp were buried, and an industry that could have supported a cleaner planet was lost.
Environmental Costs: Cotton’s Unsustainable Future
Today, the results of cotton’s unchecked growth are undeniable, and its environmental damage is apparent. Cotton’s high water demand strains water resources globally, while its pesticide dependence harms soil quality and surrounding ecosystems. The fast fashion industry, fuelled by cotton’s low cost and high production, feeds into an unsustainable model that generates waste at an unprecedented rate.
By contrast, hemp offers a lifeline for sustainable fashion. Hemp uses far less water, grows without pesticides, and actively regenerates soil, positioning it as a truly eco-friendly crop. Its strong, durable fibres mean hemp clothing has a longer lifespan, breaking the cycle of waste associated with fast fashion.
Hemp: Leading the Way for Sustainable Fashion
With climate change concerns rising, the time to rethink textiles is now. Hemp’s environmental benefits make it an obvious choice for sustainable fashion, but its reintroduction isn’t just practical — it’s about reversing years of misguided policies and industry manipulation. Hemp’s revival has the potential to save water, regenerate soil health, and provide consumers with high-quality, long-lasting products that align with environmental values.
Hemp’s potential extends beyond fashion, but within this industry, its return could make a massive impact. For a generation increasingly prioritising sustainability, hemp provides a high-quality, eco-friendly alternative to the fast-fashion mindset. Choosing hemp over cotton allows consumers to actively support an industry that prioritises environmental stewardship, quality, and transparency.
The Choice: Cotton’s Legacy or Hemp’s Future
The battle between cotton and hemp is about more than just textiles — it’s a choice between two very different futures. Cotton, backed by decades of industrial control and environmental harm, represents the profit-driven past. Hemp, with its minimal environmental footprint and regenerative properties, symbolises a sustainable future.
As the call for sustainable fashion grows louder, hemp’s resurgence isn’t just a trend; it’s a movement challenging traditional fashion. At The Hemp Theory, we believe in a world where our clothes don’t come at the expense of the planet. Consumers have the power to choose materials that reflect their values. Choosing hemp means choosing a future where fashion supports, rather than exploits, the environment.
Conclusion: Join the Hemp Movement
Cotton may have been the dominant fibre of the past century, but its spotlight has come at a significant cost. Hemp is here to take up the challenge, offering a sustainable, ethical, and high-quality alternative. At The Hemp Theory, we’re committed to reviving hemp as a positive force in fashion and beyond.
Join us in making the choice for the future. Choose hemp, support sustainability, and be part of a movement that’s reshaping fashion for good.